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Feature on St Osyth

Many famous people have attempted to put into words what defines 'Essexness' in general and 'St Osythness' in particular. Our village is in fact a microism of the many differing aspects of our county.

We have coastline edged with marshes, rivers, creeks and inlets that bite deep into the land. Farmland a wide flat landscape with pockets of ancient woodland, an Historic house!, weatherboard cottages and the nearby Edwardian watering resorts. All this under huge skies with bracing breezes.

St Osyth is situated in North East Essex on the coast of the Tendring Peninsular. That part of Essex that cuts into the North Sea, between the Historic Port of Harwich on the R. Stour and the ancient Cinque Port of Brightlingsea on the R. Colne, the latter can be reached via the Foot Ferry.

 

St Osyth has over 17 miles of coastline and was designated a Port in the 13thC. Consequently there is a maritime history of both boat building and coastal trade, used by the southern part of the Tendring Peninsular. In the main plying to and from London, but also Whitby and Kent. Cargoes of hay and straw for the Capitals stables and a vast abundant of sheep's cheese and butter for the citizens.

The most significant commodity was wool from the vast flocks kept on the grazing marshes. The 2,000 acres of marshes were interspersed by gulleys and creeks in 1530 described by Thomas Lord Audley as "unwholesome". Later in the 17thC Daniel Defoe marvelled at the wealth of wildfowl. The marshes, always misty yet muted in colour, were afflicted by the disease ague.

Defoe noted "Some men have as many as fifteen wives, every six months to a year, going upland for the next when the ague strikes". From time immemorial the marshes were subject to flooding.  Sea defences became part of the landscape, protecting the stock and safeguarding the marsh men and shepherds who lived there in isolation. There are two areas which remain allowing visitors to see the marshes as they were centuries ago. Both are now protected from development. At Leewick which is the Colne Point Reserve and west of the Priory Estate, bounded by Flag Creek is the Howlands Reserve. The advent of the railway saw the demise of coastal trading;

 

However the boatyard still functions on the Quay. Boats and barges in varying stages of renovation are easily viewed from the causeway. By the early 1920's farmers were forced to diversify due to the agricultural depression. Farmers either developed the marshes themselves or sold marshes or plots of land for development. Camps sprang up, initially tents then small caravans. An area of plotland development was established on the south bank of the creek, an amazing array of vehicles and structures appeared.

Nowadays most of the holiday settlements have luxury caravans with all mod cons. Despite the major interruptions of the war when the army commandeered and cleared the beach to the south and the Royal Navy set up a base to the west, the development of the holiday settlements has gone on apace.

St Osyth has within its bounds, 50% of all the Tendring Peninsular holiday accommodation. Built between Martello Tower A at Point Clear and Martello Tower C at Jaywick each site has on-site facilities for use by holiday makers. The Towers built C.1800 are scheduled ancient monuments. These days both function as a museum. Away from the coast and to the north of the main village is a picturesque area - The Heath - it has two small hamlets, Chisbon Heath and Rough Heath, mainly farmland and is the most densely wooded area of the village.

The lanes which cross this heathland feature road side verge nature reserves and do not have manmade features. As John Betjaman put it. "Edwardian Essex opens wide  mirrored in ponds and seen through gates, sweet uneventful countryside." There are in all 120 listed buildings in St Osyth, 78 are within the Historic Town limits, but there are some in rural areas. Many of the Farmhouses are listed, several now offer holiday accommodation.

Amongst others are the former workhouse in Daltes Lane and the moated aisled St Cleres Hall which has been in continuous residential occupation since 1320AD. The main settlement of the village is designated as an Historic Town, and as such is protected by a long established and extensive conservation area.

St Osyth is in essence a small medieval town clustered around the precinct walls of a once very powerful priory. There is an associated medieval Quay on the nearby creek, until 1961 a large tidal mill stood on the causeway. To the west and north of the priory lie the Historic park and gardens.

These provide a wooded backdrop to the village. The priory gate house and walls dominate the village centre. The triangular grassed area which abuts the gatehouse is the former village fairground. The priory is a scheduled ancient monument. The Parish Church dominates the open space - church square, the former market place. The church is a grade I listed building it is very large and gives a clue of the prosperity of the village in Tudor and Georgian periods, all based on the highly lucrative wool trade.

There is a discernible medieval layout in the village centre, this developed over the open space of the market square. Visualise an open space between the priory wall and the church, think rows of back to back stalls with alleys between. Stall holders built more solid structures, eventually consolidating development along church stone and long alleys.

 

Even today the main shopping area is situated along or within 150 yards of the crossroads and accounts for lack of pavements and misalignment at the crossroads. Visitors today can enjoy a high variation of shops and services in our small village - witness this publication - St Osyth bucks the trend now widespread in rural communities where shops and services have closed. The priory and the village have often been chosen as the venue for films, in more recent years for TV programmes. A few years ago Time Team featured a search for the medieval Quay. Authors Wilkie Collins and Dennis Wheatley, to name but two, have set novels at St Osyth. When you have sampled the delights of our village you can, if you have the time, visit the ancient town of Colchester, where two nursery rhymes originated, Humpty Dumpty and Twinkle Twinkle little star.

It was at Colchester that the first 'Essex Girl' - Boadicea, trounced the Romans. Also within easy reach just over the County border is Dedham and Flatford - immortalized by John Constable and the home of the famous equine painter Sir Alfred Munnings.
 
   martin's farm

  History Martin’s Farm was used as a landfill from 1965 to 1995. During this time 2.6 million cubic metres of waste was deposited. The depth of waste is 6 to 9 metres. Hedges and tree belts, areas of shrubs and small areas of trees have been planted to make the most of the landscape and recreational potential. Local school children and members of the parish council helped plant hundreds of trees. ECC is part of Alupro’s Trees for Africa Campaign and many oak trees were planted as part of this programme both at Martins Farm and in Africa. To the south, the site is bordered by St Osyth Park which is a Registered Park and a Conservation Area and which is of high landscape value.

 
  Wildlife

The site is adjacent to the Colne Valley Site of Special Scientific interest (an area of value for nature conservation) which is also a RAMSAR site (internationally important for migrating birds). From the higher levels there are some striking views to the west and over the tidal creek to the south west. The site is managed to develop valuable habitats for various species of birds and insects. There is an ongoing study of butterfly population on the site.

 

 
 

   Footpaths There are over 2 miles of footpaths through the site; some of them with fantastic views to the creek. and Car park facilities have been provided.

   Recreation Leisure activities planned for the site include walking, riding, picnicking, playing games such as informal football, kite flying and bird watching.

          St Osyth Parish Council

 

 

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