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Articles &
Information
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Feature on St Osyth |
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Many famous people have attempted to put
into words what defines 'Essexness' in general and 'St
Osythness' in particular. Our village is in fact a microism
of the many differing aspects of our county.
We have coastline edged with marshes,
rivers, creeks and inlets that bite deep into the land.
Farmland a wide flat landscape with pockets of ancient
woodland, an Historic house!, weatherboard cottages and the
nearby Edwardian watering resorts. All this under huge skies
with bracing breezes.
St Osyth is situated in North East Essex
on the coast of the Tendring Peninsular. That part of Essex
that cuts into the North Sea, between the Historic Port of
Harwich on the R. Stour and the ancient Cinque Port of
Brightlingsea on the R. Colne, the latter can be reached via
the Foot Ferry. |
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St Osyth has over 17 miles of coastline
and was designated a Port in the 13thC. Consequently there
is a maritime history of both boat building and coastal
trade, used by the southern part of the Tendring Peninsular.
In the main plying to and from London, but also Whitby and
Kent. Cargoes of hay and straw for the Capitals stables and
a vast abundant of sheep's cheese and butter for the
citizens.
The most significant commodity was wool
from the vast flocks kept on the grazing marshes. The 2,000
acres of marshes were interspersed by gulleys and creeks in
1530 described by Thomas Lord Audley as "unwholesome". Later
in the 17thC Daniel Defoe marvelled at the wealth of
wildfowl. The marshes, always misty yet muted in colour,
were afflicted by the disease ague. |
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Defoe noted "Some men have as many as
fifteen wives, every six months to a year, going upland for
the next when the ague strikes". From time immemorial the
marshes were subject to flooding. Sea defences became
part of the landscape, protecting the stock and safeguarding
the marsh men and shepherds who lived there in isolation.
There are two areas which remain allowing visitors to see
the marshes as they were centuries ago. Both are now
protected from development. At Leewick which is the Colne
Point Reserve and west of the Priory Estate, bounded by Flag
Creek is the Howlands Reserve. The advent of the railway saw
the demise of coastal trading; |
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However the boatyard still functions on
the Quay. Boats and barges in varying stages of renovation
are easily viewed from the causeway. By the early 1920's
farmers were forced to diversify due to the agricultural
depression. Farmers either developed the marshes themselves
or sold marshes or plots of land for development. Camps
sprang up, initially tents then small caravans. An area of
plotland development was established on the south bank of
the creek, an amazing array of vehicles and structures
appeared.
Nowadays most of the holiday settlements
have luxury caravans with all mod cons. Despite the major
interruptions of the war when the army commandeered and
cleared the beach to the south and the Royal Navy set up a
base to the west, the development of the holiday settlements
has gone on apace. |
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St Osyth has within its bounds, 50% of
all the Tendring Peninsular holiday accommodation. Built
between Martello Tower A at Point Clear and Martello Tower C
at Jaywick each site has on-site facilities for use by
holiday makers. The Towers built C.1800 are scheduled
ancient monuments. These days both function as a museum.
Away from the coast and to the north of the main village is
a picturesque area - The Heath - it has two small hamlets,
Chisbon Heath and Rough Heath, mainly farmland and is the
most densely wooded area of the village. |
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The lanes which cross this heathland
feature road side verge nature reserves and do not have
manmade features. As John Betjaman put it. "Edwardian Essex
opens wide mirrored in ponds and seen through gates,
sweet uneventful countryside." There are in all 120 listed
buildings in St Osyth, 78 are within the Historic Town
limits, but there are some in rural areas. Many of the
Farmhouses are listed, several now offer holiday
accommodation.
Amongst others are the former workhouse
in Daltes Lane and the moated aisled St Cleres Hall which
has been in continuous residential occupation since 1320AD.
The main settlement of the village is designated as an
Historic Town, and as such is protected by a long
established and extensive conservation area. |
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St Osyth is in essence a small medieval
town clustered around the precinct walls of a once very
powerful priory.
There is an associated medieval Quay on the
nearby creek, until 1961 a large tidal mill stood on the
causeway. To the west and north of the priory lie the
Historic park and gardens. |
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These provide a wooded backdrop to the
village. The priory gate house and walls dominate the
village centre. The triangular grassed area which abuts the
gatehouse is the former village fairground. The priory is a
scheduled ancient monument. The Parish Church dominates the
open space - church square, the former market place. The
church is a grade I listed building it is very large and
gives a clue of the prosperity of the village in Tudor and
Georgian periods, all based on the highly lucrative wool
trade.
There is a discernible medieval layout in
the village centre, this developed over the open space of
the market square. Visualise an open space between the
priory wall and the church, think rows of back to back
stalls with alleys between. Stall holders built more solid
structures, eventually consolidating development along
church stone and long alleys. |
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Even today the main shopping area is
situated along or within 150 yards of the crossroads and
accounts for lack of pavements and misalignment at the
crossroads. Visitors today can enjoy a high variation of
shops and services in our small village - witness this
publication - St Osyth bucks the trend now widespread in
rural communities where shops and services have closed. The
priory and the village have often been chosen as the venue
for films, in more recent years for TV programmes. A few
years ago Time Team featured a search for the medieval Quay.
Authors Wilkie Collins and Dennis Wheatley, to name but two,
have set novels at St Osyth. When you have sampled the
delights of our village you can, if you have the time, visit
the ancient town of Colchester, where two nursery rhymes
originated, Humpty Dumpty and Twinkle Twinkle little star. |
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It was at Colchester that the
first 'Essex Girl' - Boadicea, trounced the Romans. Also
within easy reach just over the County border is Dedham and
Flatford - immortalized by John Constable and the home of
the famous equine painter Sir Alfred Munnings. |
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martin's farm
History
Martin’s Farm was used as a
landfill from 1965 to 1995. During this time 2.6 million
cubic metres of waste was deposited. The depth of waste is 6
to 9 metres. Hedges and tree belts, areas of shrubs and
small areas of trees have been planted to make the most of
the landscape and recreational potential. Local school
children and members of the parish council helped plant
hundreds of trees. ECC is part of Alupro’s Trees for Africa
Campaign and many oak trees were planted as part of this
programme both at Martins Farm and in Africa. To the south,
the site is bordered by St Osyth Park which is a Registered
Park and a Conservation Area and which is of high landscape
value. |
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Wildlife
The site is adjacent to the Colne Valley Site of Special
Scientific interest (an area of value for nature
conservation) which is also a RAMSAR site (internationally
important for migrating birds). From the higher levels there
are some striking views to the west and over the tidal creek
to the south west. The site is managed to develop valuable
habitats for various species of birds and insects. There is
an ongoing study of butterfly population on the site.
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Footpaths
There are over
2 miles of footpaths through the site; some of them with
fantastic views to the creek. and Car park facilities have
been provided.
Recreation
Leisure
activities planned for the site include walking, riding,
picnicking, playing games such as informal football, kite
flying and bird watching.
St Osyth Parish Council
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